Auckland - the end

Experience pounding torrential rain during the night but when we got up around 7 the sunrise was fantastic. What a start to our day – a truly grand finale to our very short stay in Whitianga.

Driving towards SH-2 to Auckland, sun over the water, mist over the mountain, so lush, green – obviously gets rain often! Gorgeous views when the coastline comes into view, the islands beyond. Have to come back! Twists and turns over the Coromandel Forest, towards Thames then join up with SH-2. Had calculated on a nice Long Black along the way but didn’t see anywhere to stop for coffee on that stretch of the Coromandel. After about 2 and a half hours of straight driving, we're on SH-1 heading into Auckland. Then felt we were creeping along, city traffic - ugh!

Manage to find the Museum, driving through Domain Park with its huge trees and flower beds. The Maori wing is overwhelming – so many fantastic pieces. There is even a meeting house, where you can see the work in progress to restore panels that were damaged. End up spending 4 hours there – with coffee break and home-made lunch on the lawn.

Since our decision to spend a night in Auckland was last-minute we hadn’t booked a room well in advance at reasonable rates. Whatever was available was way too expensive for us. We ended up in a “Jucy Snooze”, which is a kind of hostel for back-packers. We had to laugh because all during our tour we saw "Live Jucy" tour vans in their vivid lime-green and red-violet colors, with a Marilyn Monroe inspired logo. Turned out to be fine. We had a room with bath at affordable rates, and we could park the car in a garage for a minimum fee. The location was perfect, too. Turns out we were within walking distance of the wharf district, where there are several seafood places. End up at S'olo, get a table with direct view of the marina and passers-by. Great dinner. Mild evening. Walk around the wharf. Auckland is not so bad after all! (We had been warned by many New Zealanders about Auckland.)

Get up early – anxious to get to the car rental place, Omega, outside the airport. Follow the directions we got from the Omega rental office in Wellington. Doing OK until Rt-20 to 20A – should have followed the traffic to airport, duh. And there was lots of that, wending through residential and commercial areas, crazy. Turns out the Wellington office got it wrong. No worries! We had plenty of time – just had to get through the next 24 hours before we could sleep in our own beds.

Good-bye New Zealand!

Note for next time: will definitely stop over for at least a night on the way back home. It was mad to have two back-to-back flights, with a 4-hour wait in Singapore airport.

Coromandel

Only three nights left, then back to Copenhagen! Since Maori art and culture has become so much a part of our New Zealand experience, we decide to amend our original itinerary and spend only two nights on Coromandel and the last day/night in Auckland so that we would have time to see the museum. 

Set out from Rotorua to Whitianga. Seemed straightforward but we get embroiled in Tautanga – get us out of here! Find SH-2 towards Auckland – which is the direction for Coromandel along the Pacific Coastal Highway. We have booked a motel unit as part of a campgrounds – got an end-of-season discount. Turns out to be absolutely perfect. Just right across the road from the beach, outside of the center of town (which is small – but larger than some of the other holiday places on Coromandel so a good size for us). There are several casual eating places and pubs by the marina. Beautiful setting – can understand why this is a favorite vacation spot for Aucklanders. Later walk over to the beach to gaze at the stars – Southern Cross. Can’t get enough of it.

Evening scene across from our motel (well, not directly across)

Next day: Cathedral Cave is the main attraction here, along with the hot mud tubs. However, since we know we don’t have much time to spend on Coromandel, we drive north along the coast instead and stop at a place by Black Jack. Basalt formations, beautiful spot. Drive over to Black Jack Rd. where there is a great picnic spot and Café La La (rare in these parts).

Later in the day we take the 4-minute ferry ride for NZD 6 per person from Whitianga marina to Ferry Landing. From there, it is a 40-minute walk to Cooks Beach. Surprised at the number of homes along the way, as well as motels and inns. Real vacation spot in the high season, but hardly anyone there on a weekday in March. We have the beach to ourselves.

Note: although Coromandel is described in the tourist brochures as a "hippie", arts and crafts place, we didn’t see much evidence of that: one potter's studio and signs to one art studio everywhere. In fact, when we asked about it at the I-Site they were kind of bewildered. But that didn't matter at all. Coromandel is worthy of a lot more time. The coastline is very special due to the erosion – the attraction to Cathedral Cave is understandable. For next time: sail or kayak or paddle along at least some of the coast.

Rotorua

Next destination, Rotorua, only 81 km away from Whakatane so we have plenty of time. If you are going to the North Island it is hard to avoid Rotorua – but we were tempted to bypass it somehow because there was just too much hype about it. We are glad we went. The area is deeply rooted in the Maori tradition, and Rotorua is a key spiritual and culture cultural center for many Maori, as is evident even before you reach the center. And the "hot spots" are impressive – even if you have been to Yellowstone or Iceland!

Stopped at Te Puna Whakareia, on the way to Rotorua 

We see the sign for Hell's Gate and stop, uncertain about whether to go in or not because we have read conflicting opinions plus we're eager to get to our motel. Ask someone we see coming out – says he was disappointed because it was "black and white" – not the vivid colors he had expected. We decide to drive on.

Thanks to assistance from I-Site in Whakatane, we booked three nights at the Hideaway, Ngogatana Rd. Such a friendly welcome – the geologist/co-motel owner Fiona was very sorry to hear that our excursion to White Island was cancelled, said it was such a fabulous experience. But as compensation, she told us that Rotorua has lots of geothermal areas that rival White Island, kind of. She confirmed that Hell’s Gate is indeed "monochrome" but there is a lot of hydrothermal activity. For color, but no dramatic thermal activity, she recommended Wai-o-tapu. For a bit of both she recommended Waimangu Valley.

We unload the car, make some sandwiches then head out for Waimangu – no time to lose, it is already around 2 p.m. Get a bit turned around... but finally reach the turn-off on SH-5, the Thermal Explorer Highway (now we get it!). Drive along a narrow road that is greener and hillier than others we've seen – which is saying a lot. Volcanic forces have obviously shaped those hills. 

Woman at the ticket booth says we have "plenty of time" to walk through the thermal valley and reach Bus Stop 3 by the Lake at 4:35 p.m. for the last ride back to the visitor centre. That gives us about two hours. But she hadn't calculated on the "photo factor"! Even without the photo stops, two hours is really not sufficient – nonetheless, we got a lot out of our stay – fantastic to see colorful terraces, bubbling streams and steaming lakes; felt we were in a Jurassic Park (minus dinosaurs – at least we think so!).

We spend the early evening at the Landing, a popular bistro/restaurant at Lake Tarawera. Gorgeous setting. Inside tables already reserved - the only tables available are outside on the deck. Watch the light change as we sip wine and nibble on appetizers. The owner comes out once in a while, ostensibly to see whether we need anything but really to admire the view – which he understandably never tires of. As the sun goes down, the temperature goes down, too. And there are sandflies or something that bites – no wonder everyone else is inside! Unfortunately, time to go.

Our primary target for the next day is Rotorua Museum. We park by the lake, the infamous smell of sulphur is very strong but we soon get used to it – as have most of the locals, I imagine. Families out walking by the lake, feeding the swans, geese and ducks (although they know they shouldn't!). The outskirts of Rotorua resemble any other city – fast-food places, supermarkets, petro/gas stations, etc., but the center is much more charming than we expected. The museum is an impressive Tudor-style building by a common green, Governor’s Gardens. It was originally a popular bath/healing/therapy spa for the British upper-class, especially before the captivating Pink and White terraces were submerged when Mt Tarawera erupted in 1886. Now it houses a regional museum, which gives a history of the area and also has many good Maori artifacts – displayed with an educational approach targeted at all NZ schoolchildren, regardless of Maori or European descent.

In the evening we do something we didn’t think we would ever do – go to a Maori performance. We were afraid that it would be too touristy, but we were persuaded that it was a good idea – no denying that we are indeed tourists and this presented an opportunity to see Maori culture live. We chose the one we thought suited us best, because the aim was to explain and demonstrate various aspects of traditional Maori culture: weaving, play, tattoos, dance, song, food. All the guests were picked up at their accommodation and brought to the village in a coach. As we made our way to the village we learned about Maori customs, some common phrases, migration, and the protocol when entering another village. It was all very well organized, and most people seemed to have had a great time… 

Do over: we had to take a decision, Rotorua center and museum or Wai-o-tapu, in order to be back for the Maori village experience by 5 p.m. Should definitely have prioritized Wai-o-tapu over the Maori village experience. (Note: performances by other companies might have suited us better, there are several to choose from).

Itinerary: North Island

After hiring a car in Wellington, we drove 2228 km over the next 17 days. That’s a lot. Here’s what we covered:

• Wellington to Turangi, where we spent 3 nights to visit Tongariro National Park
• Turangi to Gisborne, 5 nights visiting and getting a first-hand guided tour of all the local sights*
• Gisborne to Hick’s Bay along the Pacific Coastal Highway, 1 night
• Hick’s Bay to Whakatane, 3 nights
• Whakatane to Rotorua, 2 nights
• Rotorua to Whitianga, Coromandel, 2 nights
• Whitianga to Auckland, 1 night

* Not many organized tours go to Eastland – very remote. Gisborne figured prominently on our itinerary because we wanted to visit a good friend who lives there. That was a fabulous experience in many ways – of course seeing our friend (hello, Dianne :-)) and her family, meeting her friends, seeing where she lived and so on. It was wonderful. It also set us off on the Pacific Coastal Highway, when we left Gisborne and ended up at Hick’s Bay then Whakatane. More about that experience in a separate post …

Pohutukawa tree – imagine that covered in red flowers in December!

Tolaga Bay

Desert Road, approaching Tongariro

Whakatane

We do the river walk, starting from I-Site. Wonderful views to Whale Island and other smaller islands farther out. Could barely make out White Island, which is 50 km away. The whole length of the walk is about 4 km, but we started in the middle. Some long boats in the water – Maori crews. And mostly Maori children/teen-agers swimming from the wharf – turns out at that end there is a marae, a waka, Maori memorials. And a statue on the rock entering the harbor that is supposed to symbolize the Maori woman who dared to 'act like a man' by taking over the drifting canoe so that she and the other women could safely reach the shore.

Whakatane has the river and walkway but if you want a sandy beach, you need to drive just a few kilometers to Ohope. We walk on the beach, low tide, tons of clams washed ashore which means there were gulls and oystercatchers – they were a riot running around. A kite surfer and later some kayaks and others surfing, otherwise no one in the water.

As promised, we get a call from White Island Tours in the evening, informing us that they are not sure yet whether they can sail at 13:00 the next day … Aaarrgghh!

Ended our Maori experience for the day by seeing the film Mahana at the local cinema. NZ in the '60s, fun to see, especially since it was filmed in locations on the East coast.

At 11 a.m. the next day we walk over to White Island Tours to find out whether the tour will be cancelled or not. Couldn't say yet – "waiting word from the skipper". At 12 we are told the trip has been cancelled due to weather conditions. There is some cloud cover but the sun is behind there somewhere – peeking out every once in a while. In a state of denial  – both disappointed and frustrated because time is becoming very precious – our trip will soon be coming to an end!

Drive to a scenic point, an old Maori "Pa", above the town, can see White Island faintly in the distance. Around 3:30 it becomes more overcast, windier – have to admit that the skipper was probably right, too rough out there. (Later we find out that the main challenge for the boat tour is getting in and out of the harbor, dangerous rocks.)

Conclusion: if you plan on seeing White Island book in advance and prepare yourself for a possible cancellation! And, although Whakatane has a lot to offer, consider staying in Ohope instead.

Maori now

Left Gisborne - sad to say good-bye but feel we will be back some day! Continued on the windy Pacific Coastal Highway passing rolling hills, grazing sheep and corn fields. The Highway touches the coast at Tolaga Bay – the longest wharf in NZ. Although autumn has officially begun, you wouldn't know it from the temperature: over 30 degrees Celsius. So naturally there are people out surfing, swimming, fishing, just enjoying the fantastic weather and water. 

Next stop Tikitiki to see the famous church, magnificently carved and decorated in traditional Maori style: the baptismal font, pulpit, organ, pews, stained glass windows, roof, walls ... Only thing not in traditional Maori style are the colorful hand-made pillows lining the pews to enhance sitting comfort!

We spent some time there and then headed for one of the very few motel accommodations in the area: Hick’s Bay Motel. We arrived around 6 p.m., in time to put in an order at the motel restaurant – no idea where we would have eaten if we hadn’t done that.

Head out the next day to Whakatane and after about 30 km we actually do end up driving along the coast. We were totally unprepared for all the Maori communities along the route, amazing! Stop at Rautkokora and investigate the marae and the chapel just down the road. This is not a museum. Learn that of the 14.6% Maori living in NZ as a whole, over 40% live in Eastland.

Stop at other Maori communities – each with their own school and meeting houses just along the road side. Not sure exactly where we are – Waiorora? Another one, stop. Another one, stop - Hinetamata on Anaura Bay. Also pass several yellow signs pointing to marae.

Need bread to make sandwiches and find a general store in a holiday park at Te Kaha –  first place we have seen since leaving Hick's Bay, that is, ca 60 km with no gas, no food. Where do people get their groceries?, asks the city dweller ...

Drive through Ohope – a real beach community. "New Zealand's most loved beach", the welcome sign states. Reach Whakatane which is centered on a wharf, marina and river walkway. Wouldn’t recommend the place we stayed in for the next three nights – it’s main selling point was location, right in the middle of town so within walking distance of cafés, taverns and restaurants. As soon as we are installed, we walk up the road to the White Island excursions office – NZD 199 per person for the experience of sailing to and walking on New Zealand's only active marine volcano, hot stuff. Informed that the next day is completely booked so we try for the following day, since this excursion is the main reason we are stopping in Whakatane. There is space - but we are told that we will get a confirmation call in the evening, since it depends on the weather.

From Tongariro to Gisborne

So, how to get to Gisborne from Turangi? When looking at the atlas at home, we thought it would be thrilling to drive through Te Urewera National Park, connecting from SH-5 to route 38 northeast of Taupo:

“The road from Murupara to Wairoa through the Ureweras is not a shortcut to Gisborne, but a scenic tour of one of the more remote places in the North Island. SH38 through Te Urewera National Park is a winding track, most of it gravel, but the surroundings are spectacular, especially as it snakes past Lake Waikaremoana.”

The route not traveled on

 http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/great-nz-roads/6324388/Top-10-NZ-roads-Number-9 

However, our friend’s comment about how “scary” others younger and bolder than us have found that drive made us reconsider. As you can see from the photo, the road is really narrow and windy – meaning the driver would be concentrating on getting us safely to the other side and the passenger would be extremely nervous. If you do it, you need to be willing to spend the time it requires to truly appreciate the surroundings – spectacular, I am sure. Thrilling, too!

Instead, we took Route SH-5, the Thermal Explorer Highway or “the Napier Road”. As I recall it, lots of forests and logging. To take advantage of any of the thermal sites, you need to drive to them (all became clear when we went to Rotorua later).

Tip: get supplies and gas/petrol in Taupo because there is hardly anywhere to stop along the way. We stopped for coffee at a cafeteria in Tarawera – only place to get food and refreshments along the way. 

When you get to SH-2, north of Napier, you connect to the Pacific "Coastal" Highway – one would think that you would be able to see the coast from the road, but no, not much anyway. The road winds through hills, sheep country, gorges, rivers, definitely scenic but not “coastal”. Hard to capture on film so didn't even try. Stop at Wairoa – eat our lunch along a walkway by the river, great coffee at the local theater café. Continue along the highway – a few peeks of the ocean but primarily continue to wind through hills, undulating pasture land. See sign "Beware of goats" – later actually do see 4-5 male goats strutting along the railroad tracks! Would have made a great snapshot but we’re focused on getting to our destination. As we get closer to Gisborne, the scenery flattens out – vineyards.

We started out at 10 a.m. and landed in Gisborne at 5 p.m. Excellent time, our friend said!

The following days we get a grand tour of all the sights in and around Gisborne, including a striking statue of Captain Cook, who first landed at Gisborne. However, turns out the statue is an “Italian impostor”. New Zealand whimsy? Great story at any rate.

We visit Wright winery, who produce lovely organic wines. We’re taken to Reir Waterfall - and the Reir mud slide, where you see all sorts of people with surf boards, water mattresses, rafts, trays, and whatever else can protect your bum, plunge down into the pool below. We visited the museum “the best regional museum in New Zealand”. We ate well, imbibed New Zealand wines, and met great people. Perfect stay.

“Naked Ladies” (Amaryllis belladonna) a type of wild Amaryllis that we saw many places throughout New Zealand.
These are on John and Jean's fantastic grounds.

Gisborne is also home to Murray Ball, creator of Footrot Flats