Whakatane

We do the river walk, starting from I-Site. Wonderful views to Whale Island and other smaller islands farther out. Could barely make out White Island, which is 50 km away. The whole length of the walk is about 4 km, but we started in the middle. Some long boats in the water – Maori crews. And mostly Maori children/teen-agers swimming from the wharf – turns out at that end there is a marae, a waka, Maori memorials. And a statue on the rock entering the harbor that is supposed to symbolize the Maori woman who dared to 'act like a man' by taking over the drifting canoe so that she and the other women could safely reach the shore.

Whakatane has the river and walkway but if you want a sandy beach, you need to drive just a few kilometers to Ohope. We walk on the beach, low tide, tons of clams washed ashore which means there were gulls and oystercatchers – they were a riot running around. A kite surfer and later some kayaks and others surfing, otherwise no one in the water.

As promised, we get a call from White Island Tours in the evening, informing us that they are not sure yet whether they can sail at 13:00 the next day … Aaarrgghh!

Ended our Maori experience for the day by seeing the film Mahana at the local cinema. NZ in the '60s, fun to see, especially since it was filmed in locations on the East coast.

At 11 a.m. the next day we walk over to White Island Tours to find out whether the tour will be cancelled or not. Couldn't say yet – "waiting word from the skipper". At 12 we are told the trip has been cancelled due to weather conditions. There is some cloud cover but the sun is behind there somewhere – peeking out every once in a while. In a state of denial  – both disappointed and frustrated because time is becoming very precious – our trip will soon be coming to an end!

Drive to a scenic point, an old Maori "Pa", above the town, can see White Island faintly in the distance. Around 3:30 it becomes more overcast, windier – have to admit that the skipper was probably right, too rough out there. (Later we find out that the main challenge for the boat tour is getting in and out of the harbor, dangerous rocks.)

Conclusion: if you plan on seeing White Island book in advance and prepare yourself for a possible cancellation! And, although Whakatane has a lot to offer, consider staying in Ohope instead.