Aoraki/Mt Cook - the sun shines and all is well

Sun shining when we wake up – Yippee! No guarantee that it will be shining on the way to or at Aoraki/Mt Cook but looks promising – confirmed by the ever reliable metservice.com.  Drive through Central Otago with its vineyards perched on foothills along the river. Stop at Omarama for a Long Black (note for coffee-lovers: with one exception the coffee we had both on the South and North Islands was consistently excellent). Had high expectations of the Lindin Pass based on a comment in Trip Advisor - but disappointed. Alpine terrain, hilly and the only way to get from Wanaka/Cromwell. Maybe the photographer who commented had seen the Pass when the mountains were snow-capped or at another time of day? It makes a difference.

We were on the other hand not at all disappointed at our first sight of Aoraki/Mt Cook. Leave the alpine region behind us, into the flatlands. Then BAM! Lake Pukaki - turquoise, WOW! Unexpected beauty - stretching for miles (178.7 km). Avg. depth 47 m! The glacial feed gives a distinctive blue color, created by glacial flour. A geological wonder.

Very glad that we decided to spend four nights in this area. Again, you have to book beforehand if you want moderately priced accommodation. We couldn’t get four nights in one place (despite making the booking more than four weeks in advance) so stayed one night in a cabin at Glentanner Park and three nights at a motel in Twizel, which is 60 km away from Mt Cook Village (which has accommodation at various price ranges, but you really have to plan ahead to get a reservation there).

Drive to the Visitor's Center at Mt Cook to get orientated - weather forecast OK. Since it is already around 15:00, the ranger suggests we take the short tracks by the Tasman Glacier, so we do. Both the one down to the jetty and then back up to the View. We are at the tail end the glacier but still get a view of the incredible blue ice. Has shrunk significantly due to global warming and will continue to do so but still large - it is New Zealand’s longest glacier, in fact. Covers 101 km sq./39 sq. mi; 27 km/17 mi long (by 2020 will be reduced to 20 km).
If we do ever come this way again, we will definitely make sure to book a glacier kayak tour – that would be fabulous!

There are places to eat at Mt Cook Village – Hermitage (expensive), Old Mountaineer (casual bistro) and the Chamois Bar and Grill at Cook Village Lodge (family, wide selection, noisy). The first night, we ate at the Chamois – with the constantly changing display of Mt Cook/Aoraki in front of us, which was fabulous.

On the second day, we took another walk, Kea point – short but steep and windy. Misting/clouding over Aoraki/Mt Cook – time to drive to our motel in Twizel. The distance didn't matter at all – we never tired of driving along Lake Pukaki.

Next day we focus on the Hooper Valley Track. Lots of families out, camper vans, etc. – largest crowd we have seen. A sunny Sunday. The Hooper Valley Track is about 5 km, the trail is well laid with gravel, walkways over the wetland and three "swing bridges" over rushing glacial streams. Therefore labelled as an easy track – but rigorous enough for us. It took us 4 hours – not because we're slow, we chose to take our time to take in the vegetation, rocks, waterfalls, glaciers and panoramic views. Rewarded at the end of the track with a glacial "beach" and a closer view of Aoraki/Mt Cook.

End our day at the Old Mountaineers Café with a Long Black and Kapiti ice-cream, sitting outside gazing at Aoraki/Mt Cook. Perfect.

Note: Being a mature couple who do not have real hiking experience, we chose the short tracks. There are of course several longer more strenuous tracks that attract true hikers. You can find out more about them on the DOC web site for Mt Cook.