Tongariro

Overcast, chilly we set out from Wellington on SH-1 around 10:30: destination Turangi. Not going there to do any fly fishing or serious hiking. Our aim is to explore Tongariro – that is, the bit accessible to a mature couple. Got the impression from organized tours and guidebooks that most people go to Tongariro to do the Alpine Crossing. Note: judging only from the photos on the web site one might think the sun is shining – I don’t think that happens often up at those heights.

A word about our itinerary: we debated about whether to drive from Wellington to Mt Taranaki/Mt Egmont and stay at New Plymouth for a night and then drive to Tongariro and stay two nights. We decided against that because we were afraid it would be way too rushed. And I think we were right, but that’s us.

Can't say the drive from Wellington is stunning. Got so spoiled on the South Island, we became unused to ordinary traffic. Not until we get beyond Palmerston North do we begin to feel better – sharply peaked hills/mountains, Ruahine Range, parallel in distance. Pass through several small towns, including Bulls – "a town like no udder!". At Waiouru we reach army territory – danger, "unauthorized entry prohibited" and lots of pylon cutting through the landscape. Start of the “Desert Road” – Rangipo Desert. Lots of heather, which seems odd – later we learn it was introduced by a Brit to hunt grouse and is now an invasive plant.

We arrive at Turangi Bridge Motel late in the afternoon. Turangi is about 50 miles from the northern entrance of Tongariro and is famous for its fly fishing. Regardless, it is a good place to stay as a base in the central North.

The next day we drive to the Visitor's Center at Whakapapa Village. Tell Ranger at center we are interested in something suitable for senior citizens – "Bring your parents, did ya". Ha, ha.

Had been sunny in Turangi but clouds of varying size and shape are a constant factor over the mountains/volcanoes: Mt Tongario (1967 m), Ngaurohoe/Mt Doom (2287 m) and Mt Ruapehoe (2797 m). Drive up to the upper car park, after a shot of caffeine, and walk to Meads Wall – LOTR site, battle of the Orcs, used as the wasteland at Emyn Muil. Since we didn't see the trilogy, almost meaningless to us but still a cool place to be – though bit difficult to ignore the construction work going on to expand the lifts. There are also more holiday houses than we expected, this is obviously a major ski area. Take two chairlifts to get to Café 2020, "New Zealand's highest café". Start on the track called Skyline, lured by the colors of the rocks, light changing all the time. Managed pretty well but had to head back to make the last chairlift at 4 pm. Down one chairlift then the next. Sun down in the valley – long vistas, across hundreds of kilometers.

Mead's  Wall

Skyline Track

Stop to photograph some of the heather and Toe-toe that lines the roadsides – beautiful combination. Several more photo stops – much clearer today – still cannot see the top of Ngauruhoe –  clouds moving constantly, craters and fumeroles being revealed then concealed again. 

The following day we do the "one hour there, one hour back" walk to Taranaki Falls but we take our time: four hours! Beautiful woodsy paths – well tended – with moss, ferns, delicate alpine flowers. Oh yeah, and the waterfall!