Left Gisborne - sad to say good-bye but feel we will be back some day! Continued on the windy Pacific Coastal Highway passing rolling hills, grazing sheep and corn fields. The Highway touches the coast at Tolaga Bay – the longest wharf in NZ. Although autumn has officially begun, you wouldn't know it from the temperature: over 30 degrees Celsius. So naturally there are people out surfing, swimming, fishing, just enjoying the fantastic weather and water.
Next stop Tikitiki to see the famous church, magnificently carved and decorated in traditional Maori style: the baptismal font, pulpit, organ, pews, stained glass windows, roof, walls ... Only thing not in traditional Maori style are the colorful hand-made pillows lining the pews to enhance sitting comfort!
We spent some time there and then headed for one of the very few motel accommodations in the area: Hick’s Bay Motel. We arrived around 6 p.m., in time to put in an order at the motel restaurant – no idea where we would have eaten if we hadn’t done that.
Head out the next day to Whakatane and after about 30 km we actually do end up driving along the coast. We were totally unprepared for all the Maori communities along the route, amazing! Stop at Rautkokora and investigate the marae and the chapel just down the road. This is not a museum. Learn that of the 14.6% Maori living in NZ as a whole, over 40% live in Eastland.
Stop at other Maori communities – each with their own school and meeting houses just along the road side. Not sure exactly where we are – Waiorora? Another one, stop. Another one, stop - Hinetamata on Anaura Bay. Also pass several yellow signs pointing to marae.
Need bread to make sandwiches and find a general store in a holiday park at Te Kaha – first place we have seen since leaving Hick's Bay, that is, ca 60 km with no gas, no food. Where do people get their groceries?, asks the city dweller ...
Drive through Ohope – a real beach community. "New Zealand's most loved beach", the welcome sign states. Reach Whakatane which is centered on a wharf, marina and river walkway. Wouldn’t recommend the place we stayed in for the next three nights – it’s main selling point was location, right in the middle of town so within walking distance of cafés, taverns and restaurants. As soon as we are installed, we walk up the road to the White Island excursions office – NZD 199 per person for the experience of sailing to and walking on New Zealand's only active marine volcano, hot stuff. Informed that the next day is completely booked so we try for the following day, since this excursion is the main reason we are stopping in Whakatane. There is space - but we are told that we will get a confirmation call in the evening, since it depends on the weather.
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