Rotorua

Next destination, Rotorua, only 81 km away from Whakatane so we have plenty of time. If you are going to the North Island it is hard to avoid Rotorua – but we were tempted to bypass it somehow because there was just too much hype about it. We are glad we went. The area is deeply rooted in the Maori tradition, and Rotorua is a key spiritual and culture cultural center for many Maori, as is evident even before you reach the center. And the "hot spots" are impressive – even if you have been to Yellowstone or Iceland!

Stopped at Te Puna Whakareia, on the way to Rotorua 

We see the sign for Hell's Gate and stop, uncertain about whether to go in or not because we have read conflicting opinions plus we're eager to get to our motel. Ask someone we see coming out – says he was disappointed because it was "black and white" – not the vivid colors he had expected. We decide to drive on.

Thanks to assistance from I-Site in Whakatane, we booked three nights at the Hideaway, Ngogatana Rd. Such a friendly welcome – the geologist/co-motel owner Fiona was very sorry to hear that our excursion to White Island was cancelled, said it was such a fabulous experience. But as compensation, she told us that Rotorua has lots of geothermal areas that rival White Island, kind of. She confirmed that Hell’s Gate is indeed "monochrome" but there is a lot of hydrothermal activity. For color, but no dramatic thermal activity, she recommended Wai-o-tapu. For a bit of both she recommended Waimangu Valley.

We unload the car, make some sandwiches then head out for Waimangu – no time to lose, it is already around 2 p.m. Get a bit turned around... but finally reach the turn-off on SH-5, the Thermal Explorer Highway (now we get it!). Drive along a narrow road that is greener and hillier than others we've seen – which is saying a lot. Volcanic forces have obviously shaped those hills. 

Woman at the ticket booth says we have "plenty of time" to walk through the thermal valley and reach Bus Stop 3 by the Lake at 4:35 p.m. for the last ride back to the visitor centre. That gives us about two hours. But she hadn't calculated on the "photo factor"! Even without the photo stops, two hours is really not sufficient – nonetheless, we got a lot out of our stay – fantastic to see colorful terraces, bubbling streams and steaming lakes; felt we were in a Jurassic Park (minus dinosaurs – at least we think so!).

We spend the early evening at the Landing, a popular bistro/restaurant at Lake Tarawera. Gorgeous setting. Inside tables already reserved - the only tables available are outside on the deck. Watch the light change as we sip wine and nibble on appetizers. The owner comes out once in a while, ostensibly to see whether we need anything but really to admire the view – which he understandably never tires of. As the sun goes down, the temperature goes down, too. And there are sandflies or something that bites – no wonder everyone else is inside! Unfortunately, time to go.

Our primary target for the next day is Rotorua Museum. We park by the lake, the infamous smell of sulphur is very strong but we soon get used to it – as have most of the locals, I imagine. Families out walking by the lake, feeding the swans, geese and ducks (although they know they shouldn't!). The outskirts of Rotorua resemble any other city – fast-food places, supermarkets, petro/gas stations, etc., but the center is much more charming than we expected. The museum is an impressive Tudor-style building by a common green, Governor’s Gardens. It was originally a popular bath/healing/therapy spa for the British upper-class, especially before the captivating Pink and White terraces were submerged when Mt Tarawera erupted in 1886. Now it houses a regional museum, which gives a history of the area and also has many good Maori artifacts – displayed with an educational approach targeted at all NZ schoolchildren, regardless of Maori or European descent.

In the evening we do something we didn’t think we would ever do – go to a Maori performance. We were afraid that it would be too touristy, but we were persuaded that it was a good idea – no denying that we are indeed tourists and this presented an opportunity to see Maori culture live. We chose the one we thought suited us best, because the aim was to explain and demonstrate various aspects of traditional Maori culture: weaving, play, tattoos, dance, song, food. All the guests were picked up at their accommodation and brought to the village in a coach. As we made our way to the village we learned about Maori customs, some common phrases, migration, and the protocol when entering another village. It was all very well organized, and most people seemed to have had a great time… 

Do over: we had to take a decision, Rotorua center and museum or Wai-o-tapu, in order to be back for the Maori village experience by 5 p.m. Should definitely have prioritized Wai-o-tapu over the Maori village experience. (Note: performances by other companies might have suited us better, there are several to choose from).